Cymbidiums are wonderful orchids that are very popular because of their relatively easy culture. Cymbidiums bloom from January to early May, depending on the particular variety. In Southern California, Cymbidiums can be grown outside year-round. They are great for the patio or in a lightly shaded garden area. Cymbidiums will tolerate considerable summer heat and can easily stand temperatures down to freezing. They require cool nights (45-50o F) in summer and early fall for flower spike initiation. This occurs naturally in most Southern California areas. |
LIGHT:  Insufficient light is the main reason Cymbidiums will fail to flower: they like as much light as possible, with shade from the hottest midday sun. A good general rule is to give the plants enough light so that the foliage becomes light green — dark green foliage means too much shade. Once the spikes begin to show in the fall, additional shading is helpful to prevent bud drop and to retain good color. Adequate shading and airy, cool conditions produce the best flowers. Provide enough space between each plant for good air circulation and maximum light exposure. |
WATERING:  Water once a week, possibly twice a week during very hot or dry weather. Drench the soil until you see water draining out the bottom of the pot. During the winter you may reduce the watering frequency so your plants are somewhat drier. |
| FERTILIZING: Feed with Roger's Flower Food every two weeks from January through July; once a month from August through December. Never feed a dry plant - water before feeding if necessary. Roger's carries several good fertilizers developed especially for orchids. |
POTTING SOIL:  Cymbidium mix must have good drainage, but retain moisture well. A good mixture consists of three parts fine grind fir bark and one part redwood bark. Roger's has this soil available for purchase. |
PESTS and DISEASES:  Cymbidiums have few pests. Occasionally you may see scale or mites. Spray scale with Diazinon or Malathion. Mites are controlled with Mavrik or Dexol Red Spider & Mite Spray. For snails and slugs Roger's recommends "That's It" snail bait. |
| TRANSPLANTING and DIVIDING: Repot when the container is so filled with bulbs that there is no room left for new bulb growth(see Figure 1). You can either transplant to a container one size larger, or you can divide your plant. Repot as soon as possible after blooming. If a plant does not bloom, the best time to repot is in March. Repotting after July 1 may prevent blooming the following year. When dividing the plant, keep a minimum of 3-5 bulbs with foliage per division (see Figure 2). Larger divisions will produce earlier and larger blooms. Let your plant dry out for a few days before dividing; it will be lighter and the roots will be less susceptible to breakage.  First, pull the plant out of the pot. Pots might have to be broken if very rootbound. Shake out or wash out with a hose as much of the planting mix as possible. Gently pull the plant apart to see where divisions can be made. Some divisions may fall apart as you begin to separate them, but more likely you will have to cut between divisions with a knife or pruning shears. Trim off old brown, withered roots and save the plump, pale roots — the more, the better. Replant divisions, placing oldest growth toward outer edge of the pot, newest growth near the center to allow for maximum growing room (see Figure 3). The bulbs with growth should be planted to 1/3 their depth. Back bulbs (dormant, leafless pseudobulbs) may be cut away if they have no live roots. These can be restarted by placing them to 1/3 their depth in cymbidium mix. They produce flowering plants, but much more slowly than divisions. Settle mix firmly around the roots with fingers and by gently tapping the pot on the ground. Set plants in a shaded area and wait about a week before you begin watering. Begin fertilizing and follow usual care when active growth appears. Reiger Begonia || Landscape Gardening |
